
Visiting the DMZ: Dividing the Korean peninsula like a scar, the 160-mile-long Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) isn't just a strategic political meeting place -- it's also a tourist magnet that welcomes more than 1.2 million travelers a year.

First impressions: When imagining the 2.5-mile-wide DMZ, roughly 30 miles north of Seoul, the first image that comes to mind is often the Joint Security Area (JSA).

Border patrol: It's easily identifiable by the vibrant blue Military Armistice Commission Conference Room, which straddles the Military Demarcation Line.

Tourist magnet: "Panmunjom is the most-visited part of the DMZ, from both sides," says Simon Cockerell, managing director of Koryo Tours. "This is where you can see the front line up close, and even cross it within (the conference room)."

The atmosphere: "While there's tension there all the time, it's not the case to say that it is on a knife edge or anything like that," says Cockerelll. "After all, it has been in its current state for decades."

Guided tours: To experience secure zones like the JSA (also known as the Panmunjom truce area), travelers must book a guided private or group tour with a licensed operator, such as Koryo Tours in the North or Viator in the South.

North vs South: In the North, there are two major points of interest inside the DMZ: Panmunjom and the Concrete Wall observation post, which overlooks the South Korean anti-tank barrier on the southern end of the DMZ.

South side: In contrast, the South Korean side encompasses several parks, observation towers and museums.

Must-see sites: Most first-time visitors choose a combined DMZ and JSA Tour by way of Seoul, which typically takes a full day. The itinerary usually passes through unfinished infiltration tunnels (said to be built by the North), the barricaded Freedom Bridge (used to return prisoners at the end of the war), Nuri Peace Park, Dora Observatory, and Mount Odu Observatory (pictured here).

360-degree views: The observatories are a highlight, providing voyeuristic travelers with binoculars and 360-degree views across the peninsula. You'll see the modern cities and cars of South Korea in one direction, juxtaposed with marshy landscapes up north. While mostly desolate, you might spot a glimpse of beautiful white cranes, eagles, bears, goats or deer.

Diverse attractions: In South Korea, the atmosphere varies widely from site to site, from quiet deference at JSA to the bustling Dora Observatory. There is even a theme park built in Imjingak Nuri Peace Park, just outside the DMZ, which may feel at odds with the area's somber history.

Codes of conduct: When it comes to codes of conduct, it may surprise travelers to learn that the southern side of the DMZ is stricter than the northern side. On the south side, travelers must follow a strict dress code -- no sandals, camouflage, shorts or ripped jeans -- as well as abstain from waving, signaling or taking pictures without permission.

The DMZ's destiny: Despite the current air of optimism on the peninsula, some experts believe the DMZ isn't going anywhere anytime soon. "I think it's highly unlikely the DMZ will disappear. While everyone looks very friendly at the moment I would expect any move to actually remove the DMZ would take a long time to happen," says Cockerell.


