
Khao San Road, Bangkok: An influx of backpackers that started out as a trickle in the 1970s became a tidal wave in the 1990s, transforming Khao San Road into the world's largest backpacker center. According to the Khao San Business Association, in 2018 the road saw an astounding 40,000-50,000 tourists per day in the high season.

Khao San Road, 2021: Today's Khao San is deserted due to recent government lockdown restrictions to prevent the spread of Covid-19.

Khao San Road/Tanao Road corner: When the coronavirus pandemic forced Thailand to close its borders in April 2020, international tourist arrivals fell to zero almost overnight. Though Khao San Road was able to attract locals in the following months, it suffered another setback when a second wave of coronavirus cases spiked in early January 2021.

Former rice market: Khao San means "milled rice" -- a name given to the newly cobbled strip in 1892 in response to the rice trade that flourished in the neighborhood.

Waiting for customers: A motorcyle taxi driver rests on his bike in this photograph taken during a recent visit to Khao San Road.

Controlling the chaos: The Bangkok Metropolitan Authority recently invested $1.6 million to transform Khao San Road into a regulated "international walking street." The project wrapped up in late 2020, with a repaved road and footpaths, and retractable bollards (pictured) designating spaces for 250--350 licensed Thai vendors.

Photo op: A statue of Ronald holding his hands in the traditional Thai "wai" pose sits outside a Khao San Road McDonald during a recent visit. In normal times, it's a popular spot for photos.

Introducing Khao San to the world: Writer Joe Cummings included recommendations for Khao San Road accommodations in the first two Lonely Planet Thailand editions, which were published in 1982 and 1984. At the time, there were few guesthouse options.

VS Guest House: Among the three guesthouses listed in the first guide was VS Guest House. Located in a 1920s vintage wooden house, it offered travelers a place to sleep for $1.50 per head. Today, VS Guest House offers 10 rooms (including the one pictured), which each go for $10 a night.

Still in business: Former Lonely Planet author Cummings stands with fourth generation VS Guest House owner Rintipa Detkajon during a January 2021 visit.

VS Guest House stairs: "I was around 16 years old when our first guest, an Australian man, stayed the night," recalls Rintipa. "Foreigners back then traveled so quietly. They were interested in history and culture, unlike youngsters we see nowadays, who seem more interested in getting drunk and partying."

Classic interiors: An interior corner of VS Guest House.

Songkran, 2010: An elephant spouts water over tourists during the Songkran festival to mark the Thai new year in April, 2010. Khao San Road has long been a popular spot for tourists and locals looking to join the world-famous Songkran water fights.



