Banh mi crawl: There's a banh mi stand on almost every corner in Hoi An. But which are the best of the best? Huynh Huu Phuoc -- a Hoi An local and founder of Eat Hoi An, shortlists the best buns in the city.
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Food for thought: If there's one thing to eat in Hoi An, I must say it's banh mi," says Huynh. "We have the best banh mi in the world."
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Banh mi basics: The king of sandwiches brings together several cultural traditions all in one crispy bun, namely a golden French baguette (introduced to Vietnam by French colonists in the late 19th century) pork pâté, Chinese char siu (barbecued pork), American hamburger meat, mayonnaise, and a mix of Vietnamese herbs and chili sauces.
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Phi Banh Mi: What makes this banh mi special is the roasted pork belly. "The best part of the pig is the belly, but every pig has a different flavor and taste," says Huynh. "A free-range pig will taste better -- and that's what he uses."
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Madam Khanh - The Banh Mi Queen: Now in her 90s, Nguyen Thi Loc (aka Madam Khanh) set up her banh mi business in 1975 and ran it for 45 years -- nearly half her life.
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Madam Khanh - The Banh Mi Queen: Though her daughter runs the show now, she often stops by in the mornings to help out. The family introduced a bigger menu -- including vegetarian, beef and fish banh mi -- plus a slightly sweet sauce and added an omelet inside.
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La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An: Located in western Hoi An, La Banh My Sai Gon Tai Hoi An is a nostalgic stop for Huynh. "When I was a kid, I came here every day in the early morning to eat her banh mi," he recalls.
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La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An: Born in Ho Chi Minh City, the owner of La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An, named Ta Thi Nghia, moved to Hoi An 20 years ago looking for new opportunities.
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La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An: "Her banh mi is a little bit different, because it has southern tradition," says Huynh. "She uses extra fatty rolled pork belly instead of char siu and plenty of green chili for heat. She also makes her mayonnaise -- using egg, oil and yogurt for a slightly sour taste."
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La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An: "This is the correct way to cook pâté -- really, really slow with the open fire like this," says Huynh. "There's no rush here. They let it cook nice and slowly."
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La Banh Mi Sai Gon Tai Hoi An: "Her recipes are from the South, which is more influenced by the Khmer (Cambodian) culture," says Huynh. "They eat more palm sugar and add it in the cooking, so food tends to be slightly sweeter."
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Banh Mi Phuong: The most famous banh mi in the world, Banh Mi Phuong sells roughly 3,000-4,000 sandwiches a day.
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Banh Mi Phuong: "Seven years ago, a guy with a camera came by, ordered a bahn mi and said: 'This is the best banh mi in the world,'" says Huynh. "That was Anthony Bourdain."
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Banh Mi Phuong: "The most important thing about banh mi is the bread. It has to be fresh -- crispy on the outside, soft on the inside," says Huynh. "Their location is really smart (next to the city's best bakery). Now they have a steady stream of fresh baguettes."
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Banh Mi Phuong: As for the taste? The traditional-style baguettes explode with fresh ingredients, such as barbecued pork, spicy chili, a bundle of fresh herbs and yolky mayonnaise.
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Banh Mi Lanh: A tiny stall near the Chua Nam Quang Tu pagoda in northeast Hoi An, Banh Mi Lanh draws a following among local residents.
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Banh Mi Lanh: In business for about 30 years, the stall is run by Khuu Thi Lanh, who pumps out baguettes at lightning speed under the shade of a tin roof.
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Banh Mi Lanh: "This flavor is really the most authentic in Hoi An," says Huynh. "They use the same bread as Madam Phuong's and homemade pâté, baked the traditional way in a lemongrass and shallot marinade."
