Shinobu Namae: The chef who marries French cuisine with Japanese spirit

This story complements the Culinary Journeys TV series, airing monthly on CNN International. See more of the show here: cnn.com/journeys. Share photos of your own Culinary Journeys on Instagram with the hashtag #CNNFood for a chance to be featured on CNN.

These days, the word fusion seems to make everyone cringe.

Yuzu foam, while delicious, has become an unoriginal way to exoticize a few scallops.

Sea bream sashimi served with Muscat grape and buttermilk emulsion?

If we must.

Many of today’s “globally inspired” menus consciously play on flavors to please cosmopolitan palates, while the term “fusion” seems to belong to a less connected world.

This is why it’s refreshing to experience the brilliance of Shinobu Namae, a Japanese chef who integrates culinary cultures and methods into his dishes.

Namae’s creations, served at his Tokyo French restaurant L’effervescence, go beyond the trendy appropriation of flavors that have become widespread in the fine dining world.

While trained in European methods, his vision, as well as every detail of his executions, are deeply rooted in Japan’s time-honored practice of hospitality.

MORE: Hoshinoya: The ryokan challenging Kyoto’s cuisine

An all-star CV

Ramen —

Japanese ramen comes in different flavors in different regions. There are four main styles -- shoyu, shio, tonkotsu and miso.

Okonomiyaki —

Translating loosely as "as you like it," okonomiyaki is a savory pancake made with any number of ingredients -- thin slices of pork belly, octopus, shrimp and even cheese.

Unagi no kabayaki —

Marinated in a sweet soy-based kabayaki sauce then grilled, unagi (eel) has an intense, smoky-sweet flavour. It's best when eaten with some plain rice.

Yakitori —

Traditionally, yakitori refers only to barbecued poultry skewers -- be it meat, offal or skin. However, the meaning of the term has widened to include vegetables and other meats.

Sushi —

One of Japan's greatest gastronomical gifts to the world, good sushi relies on two things: the freshness of the ingredients and the knife skills of the chef.

Sanuki udon —

What makes Sanuki udon special is its chewy and silky texture. Slick, slurpable, and immensely satisfying, Sanuki udon noodles offers the firm bite of al dente pasta and the pliant density of mochi rice cakes.

Tonkatsu —

Breaded, deep-fried until crisp and golden brown, then drizzled with a sweet and piquant sauce -- meat doesn't get any better than tonkatsu, or Japanese pork cutlet.

Beef tongue —

Sendai is said to be the capital and birthplace of gyutan -- grilled slices of beef tongue. It's best served fragrant with buttery grease and has a slightly chewy texture.

Natto —

The steamed fermented soybeans have a pungent aroma, slimy texture and unique taste that people either love or hate.

Gyoza —

Bite-sized and rich, gyoza originated in China. It's normally filled with a mix of pork, cabbage and nira chives, then dipped into a tangy blend of soy sauce and vinegar.

Wagyu —

Wagyu is known for its even and pervasive marbling. When cooked, it's buttery, meltingly tender and contains mostly monounsaturated fatty acids (aka "the good fats").

Nabe —

The best way to warm up in winter in Japan: sharing a nabe (hot pot) night with family and friends.

Tempura —

Thin, crispy and golden, Japan's tempura turns deep-frying into an art form.

Chirashi-don —

Combining the simple elegance of fresh raw fish with the laid back informality of donburi, a chirashi-don is as visually appealing as it is hunger-quashing.

Miso —

Japanese cuisine wouldn't be the same without miso. The salty fermented bean paste forms the base of this popular Japanese soup.

Soba —

Soba is Japanese buckwheat noodles. It can be served cold as zaru-soba or hot in a dashi broth. Te-uchi (hand-beaten) soba offers the best firm-to-the-bite texture.

Tamagoyaki/dashimaki tamago —

Tamagoyaki is made by rolling an egg mix -- with dashi -- into layers, then cutting into slices.

Taiyaki —

Taiyaki is a sea bream-shaped waffle with a sweet filling -- azuki bean paste is most traditional.

Onigiri —

The ultimate cheap eat in Japan, Onigiri is usually a triangular rice ball wrapped in nori. It comes with various fillings, from cod roe to grilled chicken.

Matcha sundae —

In a matcha sundae, the slight hint of bitterness from the ice cream is balanced by the sweet red bean paste. This one from a Tsujiri store comes with chewy mochi and some crunchy toasted rice.

Takoyaki —

Takoyaki, or octopus balls, feature a crisp exterior and a gooey center filed with octopus, pickled ginger and scallions. The balls are brushed with a sweet sauce and Japanese mayo before being sprinkled with bonito flakes and nori.

Top foods in Japan

Prev Next

Namae didn’t go to culinary school.

Born in Yokohama in 1973, he studied political science in Keio University in Tokyo while moonlighting as a pasta cook.

After graduating in 1996, he worked his way up and eventually joined the kitchens of gastronomy’s biggest celebrities.

He worked at Michel Bras’s restaurants in Laguiole, France and Hokkaido, Japan – both awarded three Michelin stars – and became sous chef of the Hokkaido branch in 2005.

In 2008, he joined “The Fat Duck” in Bray, Berkshire as sous and pastry chef. The avant-garde, three-star establishment owned by wizard chef Heston Blumenthal was once crowned the world’s best restaurant.

Whole-cooked turnip with parsley oil emulsion, Kintoa Basque ham and brioche is a signature dish at L'effervescence.

Namae returned to Japan and opened L’effervescence in Tokyo’s Minato district in 2010.

The chef describes his two Michelin-starred restaurant as a “hermitage in the city” that’s closely connected to the seasons, farmers and his country’s traditions.

READ: World’s best chefs share favorite food experiences

Hospitality is key

Namae’s work is influenced by Japanese kaiseki, the meal served before a formal tea ceremony.

At the heart of this tradition – and Namae’s philosophy – is the Japanese spirit of hospitality known as “omotenashi,” which means wholehearted service.

“Japanese hospitality is all about appreciating and respecting those tiny things and putting everything together to make someone happy,” Namae tells CNN.

It’s also about making a guest feel truly special.

Every detail, from the room’s features to the ceramics used to the angle the food, is designed to convey hospitality and create memories.

For Namae, every gesture involved in creating kaiseki cuisine is married with ceremonial significance – including the walk down the hallway, which represents a change in the state of his mind as he readies himself to prepare the meal ahead.

MORE: 8 Japanese dishes you’ve probably never heard of

Kitchen: Calm or chaos?

So how does Namae remain calm in an environment that’s typically chaotic – a Michelin starred restaurant kitchen.

“Our energy is limited, so we don’t want to use our energy in a negative way,” says Namae.

“We want to focus on our dishes, because we like to make people happy.”