Colombia’s La Guajira Desert is attracting visitors | CNN

La Guajira: Colombia’s great unknown Caribbean desert

By Nicol Nicolson, CNN
2 minute read
Published 4:38 AM EST, Tue December 8, 2015
On the northernmost tip of South America, Colombia's La Guajira Desert is slowly making its way onto the tourist map. At times it can resemble Arizona or Nevada, with its vast swathes of barren emptiness. Along the coast, the scenery often recalls Oman or Egypt.
Colombia's "Caribbean desert" —
On the northernmost tip of South America, Colombia's La Guajira Desert is slowly making its way onto the tourist map. At times it can resemble Arizona or Nevada, with its vast swathes of barren emptiness. Along the coast, the scenery often recalls Oman or Egypt.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Punta Gallinas has an "end of the earth" feel, helped by the 200-foot-high Taroa Dunes, which tumble straight down into the tumultuous Caribbean.
Taroa Dunes —
Punta Gallinas has an "end of the earth" feel, helped by the 200-foot-high Taroa Dunes, which tumble straight down into the tumultuous Caribbean.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
It's windy up here, so you might get sand in places you don't want it.
Taroa Dunes —
It's windy up here, so you might get sand in places you don't want it.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
The only community of note in the far north is the Wayuu fishing village of Cabo de la Vela, which has grown in popularity with Colombian and international visitors, thanks to Caribbean beaches and a kite-surfing community.
Cabo de la Vela —
The only community of note in the far north is the Wayuu fishing village of Cabo de la Vela, which has grown in popularity with Colombian and international visitors, thanks to Caribbean beaches and a kite-surfing community.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Although traffic is still light, international visitors have increasingly been finding their way to the town.
Cabo de la Vela —
Although traffic is still light, international visitors have increasingly been finding their way to the town.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
This is the land of the Wayuu people, indigenous South Americans who eke out an existence in this harsh environment by herding, weaving and generally hanging on by any means they can.
Handmade existence —
This is the land of the Wayuu people, indigenous South Americans who eke out an existence in this harsh environment by herding, weaving and generally hanging on by any means they can.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Cabo de la Vela's other claim to fame is incredible Caribbean sunsets, which draw travelers to the north end of the bay. After dark, there's a smattering of nightlife.
Gentle evenings —
Cabo de la Vela's other claim to fame is incredible Caribbean sunsets, which draw travelers to the north end of the bay. After dark, there's a smattering of nightlife.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
La Guajira doesn't get a lot of rain, but the little that falls can effectively cut off the north of the peninsula. One four-wheel drive stuck in the mud can prove a headache for anyone that follows, as there's little choice in access to the remotest regions.
Getting here isn't easy —
La Guajira doesn't get a lot of rain, but the little that falls can effectively cut off the north of the peninsula. One four-wheel drive stuck in the mud can prove a headache for anyone that follows, as there's little choice in access to the remotest regions.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
The northern tip of the continent can be a bleak and unforgiving place. Visitors over time have created a forest of stone piles around a basic lighthouse.
Eerie cairns —
The northern tip of the continent can be a bleak and unforgiving place. Visitors over time have created a forest of stone piles around a basic lighthouse.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Resident reptiles brighten up the dusty land.
Desert wildlife —
Resident reptiles brighten up the dusty land.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
The further north you venture, the more cacti become a defining feature of the desert landscape. The prickly plants add a welcome dash of green to the overwhelmingly orange and brown surroundings.
Sharp features —
The further north you venture, the more cacti become a defining feature of the desert landscape. The prickly plants add a welcome dash of green to the overwhelmingly orange and brown surroundings.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Desert communities retain their slow-paced charm, despite an influx of visitors.
Growing up fast —
Desert communities retain their slow-paced charm, despite an influx of visitors.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
For now, La Guajira still enjoys a frontier feel.
Edge of the continent —
For now, La Guajira still enjoys a frontier feel.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Pelicans, flamingos and ospreys are found along the coast.
Birdwatchers welcome —
Pelicans, flamingos and ospreys are found along the coast.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Travel at this this barren outpost requires patience and a fair dose of discomfort. Accommodation is basic and extremely limited. Same with transportation.
More local transport —
Travel at this this barren outpost requires patience and a fair dose of discomfort. Accommodation is basic and extremely limited. Same with transportation.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Barely more than a couple of hundred miles from the world's highest coastal mountain range, where glaciers cap 18,000-foot peaks, the La Guajira desert receives just a handful of days of rain each year.
Fishermen —
Barely more than a couple of hundred miles from the world's highest coastal mountain range, where glaciers cap 18,000-foot peaks, the La Guajira desert receives just a handful of days of rain each year.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Interest in eco-tourism could bring the region and its Wayuu residents into closer contact with the outside world in the near future. This little-known Caribbean desert at the edge of Colombia is unlikely to remain a secret for long.
Solitude —
Interest in eco-tourism could bring the region and its Wayuu residents into closer contact with the outside world in the near future. This little-known Caribbean desert at the edge of Colombia is unlikely to remain a secret for long.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN
Colombia's Caribbean desert

Story highlights

At the northernmost tip of South America is La Guajira Desert

Tourism is starting to take off, but accommodation is basic and extremely limited

CNN  — 

The notion of a bona fide desert lapped by the waves of the Caribbean Sea seems so far-fetched that Google automatically changes most searches for “Caribbean desert” to “Caribbean dessert.”

Delightful as the ensuing search results might be, they deny netizens the glory of the La Guajira Desert.

Here, at the northernmost tip of South America, sand extends far beyond the spotless beaches, and cacti dominate a parched landscape.

Colombia’s wild northeast is slowly making its way onto the tourist map. But patience and a fair dose of discomfort are required to enjoy this barren outpost. Accommodation is basic and extremely limited.

Transportation is by boat or four-wheel-drive only, and even the sturdiest vehicles can run into trouble. (Click through the gallery above for an example.)

Locals and newbies

In La Guajira, desert dunes tumble straight down into the Caribbean.
In La Guajira, desert dunes tumble straight down into the Caribbean.
Nicol Nicolson/CNN

This is the land of the Wayuu people, indigenous South Americans who eke out an existence in this harsh environment by herding, weaving and generally hanging on by any means they can.

The arrival of international visitors has prompted a cottage industry in makeshift road tolls.

Adults let down their ropes that block passage on roads for a couple of thousand pesos (about 60 cents). Children let them down for candy – their teeth betray their diet.

Related article Mud volcano: How to get dirty in Colombia

Barely more than a hundred miles from the world’s highest coastal mountain range, where glaciers cap 18,000-foot peaks just 25 miles from the sea, the La Guajira Desert receives just a handful of days of rain each year.

But the blazing sun accentuates stark contrasts of orange sand against turquoise sea. And clear night skies offer stargazers glorious cosmic shows from their beach-side hammocks.

La Guajira’s only vacation spot per se is the kitesurfing mecca of Cabo de la Vela.

Just a couple of tour companies with strong ties to the Wayuu currently make the long journey to bleak Punta Gallinas and the neighboring Taroa Dunes, more than half a day’s drive to the north.

Smart travelers bring a sense of adventure, a bagful of gummy bears and a cushion for the car.

For those who have done it, the trip to a geographical extremity most people have probably never heard of is well worth the rough ride.