
Sumo stables —
Catching a sumo tournament isn't always easy in Japan. But it is possible to sit in on the wrestlers' morning practice?

Tokyo's beya —
Sumo wrestlers live in a handful of designated stables, or beya, where they eat, sleep, and train. Their practice starts at around 5 a.m. and if visitors call in advance they can watch the showdown for free.

The rules —
Training sessions usually last about three hours. Visitors should not distract the wrestlers by talking or moving around too much. Even taking a bathroom break is frowned upon, as it breaks the wrestlers' concentration.

Hard seats —
Sometimes spectators will be offered a pillow, sometimes they won't.

Training times —
The best time to visit the stables (there are about 12-15 around Tokyo's Ryogoku neighborhood) is during the two weeks leading up to a tournament.

Photo friendly —
Though sumo wrestlers are big, and can look scary, they're "softies," says Mark Buckton, editor of Sumo Fan Magazine and the sumo columnist for Japan Times. They're almost always open to having a photo taken, he says.


