
37 Nam Trang: It's a restaurant in a Hanoi Village, but it also resembles a museum in some ways.

Welcome, diners: 37 Nam Trang is located in ancient village Ngu Xa, about a 20 minute drive from Hanoi's Old Quarter.

Wall of memories: The food comes out of the kitchen swiftly, but take time to peer around at the thoughtfully decorated space.

Items from history: "Every time I lined up to buy meat or fish in the store, I saw the woman seller standing behind the scale to weigh their goods," says Thuy as she shows the scale.

Table for 4: There are just 30 seats in the main front room, full of natural light and old objects.

Right this way: A second dining room is as thoughtfully decorated as the main room in the front of the building.

Stamps for food: During the subsidy years, diners paid for their food using government-provided stamps; the restaurant showcases real coupons used to purchase a certain quantity of meat or fuel for cooking.

Shared plates: The best way to dine at 37 Nam Trang is to order a bunch of plates for the table and share with your dining companions.

Bowl base: Starchy rice and cassava, a root vegetable, provide a bed for rich pork dishes, fish adobe and other classic Vietnamese dishes.

Protein: Pork adobe is generously seasoned and served with thickly sliced scallions.

Presentation: A dish of boiled pork with star fruit and fresh herbs help clean the palate.

Fat for flavor: A simple vegetable stir-fry is enhanced with pork fat.

Dipping sauces: Fish sauce with chilies and garlic, shrimp paste and a soy-based sauce are presented with the meal.

When to go: 37 Nam Trang serves lunch daily from 10 am - 2 pm and dinner from 5 pm - 9pm.


