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Travel

The romance of the Scottish sleeper train

By Francesca Street, CNN
Published 7:16 AM EDT, Tue March 13, 2018
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<strong>Scottish romance:</strong> The sleeper train to Scotland has always held connotations of romance and adventure. Now author David Meara has compiled stories of the sleeper train alongside stunning photographs and posters in his new book "<a href="index.php?page=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amberley-books.com%2Fcoming-soon%2Fanglo-scottish-sleepers.html" target="_blank" target="_blank">Anglo-Scottish Sleepers</a>." <em>Pictured here: The northbound London -- Fort William Sleeper crossing the Rannoch viaduct in icy conditions.</em>
Scottish romance: The sleeper train to Scotland has always held connotations of romance and adventure. Now author David Meara has compiled stories of the sleeper train alongside stunning photographs and posters in his new book "Anglo-Scottish Sleepers." Pictured here: The northbound London -- Fort William Sleeper crossing the Rannoch viaduct in icy conditions.
Courtesy Norman McNab/Amberley Books
<strong>Story collector: </strong>Retired clergyman Meara was struck by the idea that "there must be a huge wealth of stories of people who've traveled on the service over the years -- romantic stories, funny stories, saucy stories, odd stories, all sorts," he tells CNN Travel. <em>Pictured here: A 1985 British Rail poster advertising saver fares.</em>
Story collector: Retired clergyman Meara was struck by the idea that "there must be a huge wealth of stories of people who've traveled on the service over the years -- romantic stories, funny stories, saucy stories, odd stories, all sorts," he tells CNN Travel. Pictured here: A 1985 British Rail poster advertising saver fares.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Multiple options</strong>: Sleeping cars were introduced in the 1870s on the East Coast. Fast forward to 2018 and it's a hotel-style experience -- currently, two services depart London each night. The first divides at Edinburgh, with sections heading to Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness. The later departure heads to Edinburgh and Glasgow, spitting at Carstairs. <em>Pictured here: A 1980s British Rail poster advertising the new Mark 3 sleepers and the routes between Bristol, Edinburgh and Glasgow.</em>
Multiple options: Sleeping cars were introduced in the 1870s on the East Coast. Fast forward to 2018 and it's a hotel-style experience -- currently, two services depart London each night. The first divides at Edinburgh, with sections heading to Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness. The later departure heads to Edinburgh and Glasgow, spitting at Carstairs. Pictured here: A 1980s British Rail poster advertising the new Mark 3 sleepers and the routes between Bristol, Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Train lover:</strong> "I've been traveling on and off on the sleeper since the late '60s, when we used it for family holidays," says Meara, who grew up in England. "I've always loved trains, I've never really been a dedicated trainspotter, but I've always liked railways and the romance of rail travel." <em>Pictured here:  A North British Railway train waits at Spean Bridge, in around 1900.</em>
Train lover: "I've been traveling on and off on the sleeper since the late '60s, when we used it for family holidays," says Meara, who grew up in England. "I've always loved trains, I've never really been a dedicated trainspotter, but I've always liked railways and the romance of rail travel." Pictured here: A North British Railway train waits at Spean Bridge, in around 1900.
Courtesy David Meara's collection/Amberley Books
<strong>Railway research: </strong>Meara wove these stories together with the history of Anglo-Scottish sleeper travel. "They make the book what it is," he says. He also conducted extensive research in the National Railway Museum in York. <em>Pictured here: Musician Clifford Bevan took this photograph of his wife, standing beside the Night Scotsman on the last night of their honeymoon.</em>
Railway research: Meara wove these stories together with the history of Anglo-Scottish sleeper travel. "They make the book what it is," he says. He also conducted extensive research in the National Railway Museum in York. Pictured here: Musician Clifford Bevan took this photograph of his wife, standing beside the Night Scotsman on the last night of their honeymoon.
Courtesy Clifford Bevan/Amberley Books
<strong>Magical journey:</strong> Meara has fond memories of the sleeper service as a child. "Going to sleep in your little cabin in one place, in London, in a bustling station -- and then waking up in the Scottish countryside, seeing the mountains and the rivers, somewhere totally different," recalls Meara. <em>Pictured here: First Class LNER sleeping compartment in the 1930s -- featuring a combined berth and sitting room for VIPS and finished in Rexine wall coverings of cream and blue.</em>
Magical journey: Meara has fond memories of the sleeper service as a child. "Going to sleep in your little cabin in one place, in London, in a bustling station -- and then waking up in the Scottish countryside, seeing the mountains and the rivers, somewhere totally different," recalls Meara. Pictured here: First Class LNER sleeping compartment in the 1930s -- featuring a combined berth and sitting room for VIPS and finished in Rexine wall coverings of cream and blue.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Forth Bridge</strong>: Meara's favorite image in the book is this 1928 Forth Rail Bridge poster. "If you go on the Highland Sleeper these days and go on the Aberdeen portion, you still cross the Forth Bridge in the early dawn. It's such an amazing structure in itself," says Meara. <em>Pictured here: Forth Rail Bridge Poster, designed by Henry George Gawthorn. The imposing Forth Bridge opened in 1890 to connect the East Coast Route between London and Aberdeen.</em>
Forth Bridge: Meara's favorite image in the book is this 1928 Forth Rail Bridge poster. "If you go on the Highland Sleeper these days and go on the Aberdeen portion, you still cross the Forth Bridge in the early dawn. It's such an amazing structure in itself," says Meara. Pictured here: Forth Rail Bridge Poster, designed by Henry George Gawthorn. The imposing Forth Bridge opened in 1890 to connect the East Coast Route between London and Aberdeen.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Old-school luxury: </strong>Sleeper trains are associated with glamor and luxury. "The 1920s and '30s, is what people think of, with the Flying Scotsman and the night-time equivalent," says Meara. "That was the age when the railways were [...] not only most glamorous, but also the height of steam travel and these wonderful iconic engines." <em>Pictured here: The First Class sleeping compartment on the North Belle. This was designed to be a "luxury land cruise" -- featuring First Class sleeping cars, restaurant cars and day carriages.</em>
Old-school luxury: Sleeper trains are associated with glamor and luxury. "The 1920s and '30s, is what people think of, with the Flying Scotsman and the night-time equivalent," says Meara. "That was the age when the railways were [...] not only most glamorous, but also the height of steam travel and these wonderful iconic engines." Pictured here: The First Class sleeping compartment on the North Belle. This was designed to be a "luxury land cruise" -- featuring First Class sleeping cars, restaurant cars and day carriages.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>First-class only</strong>: Sleeper travel was first-class only -- which is partly why we associate it with elegance. "It was very much the luxury travel of its day," adds Meara. <em>Pictured here: Corridor of a 1930s LNR First Class Sleeper.</em>
First-class only: Sleeper travel was first-class only -- which is partly why we associate it with elegance. "It was very much the luxury travel of its day," adds Meara. Pictured here: Corridor of a 1930s LNR First Class Sleeper.
Courtesy Bedford Lemere Collection, Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Amazing scenery: </strong>There are spectacular views on these trains. "I think the perhaps most romantic, and certainly the longest journey is London to Fort William -- the old Deerstalker, what was called the Deerstalker Express," says Meara. <em>Pictured here: The West Highland Sleeper near Loch Treig at sunset.</em>
Amazing scenery: There are spectacular views on these trains. "I think the perhaps most romantic, and certainly the longest journey is London to Fort William -- the old Deerstalker, what was called the Deerstalker Express," says Meara. Pictured here: The West Highland Sleeper near Loch Treig at sunset.
Courtesy Norman McNab/Amberley Books
<strong>Unforgettable moments: </strong>Meara has a favorite part of the journey that always stands out. "If you're coming back from Fort William, you're sitting in the Lounge Car, perhaps having a whisky, and crossing Rannoch Moor as the sun sets, that wild and remote place, where you barely seen a human habitation, I think that is a wonderful experience and something I think everybody should try and have for themselves at some point," says Meara. <em>Pictured here: The southbound Fort William -- London Euston Sleeper passing the head of Loch Treig, between Tulloch and Corrour.</em>
Unforgettable moments: Meara has a favorite part of the journey that always stands out. "If you're coming back from Fort William, you're sitting in the Lounge Car, perhaps having a whisky, and crossing Rannoch Moor as the sun sets, that wild and remote place, where you barely seen a human habitation, I think that is a wonderful experience and something I think everybody should try and have for themselves at some point," says Meara. Pictured here: The southbound Fort William -- London Euston Sleeper passing the head of Loch Treig, between Tulloch and Corrour.
Courtesy Norman McNab/Amberley Books
<strong>Literature and poetry</strong>: Meara's book also includes evocative poems suggesting the romance of train travel. "A kind of byproduct of the research into trains is the way in which, particularly sleeper travel, is referred to in literature, in detective fiction, that could form another book all by itself," says Meara. <em>Pictured here: A colorful North British Railway poster 1920 -- this poster shows Ben Nevis in the center.</em>
Literature and poetry: Meara's book also includes evocative poems suggesting the romance of train travel. "A kind of byproduct of the research into trains is the way in which, particularly sleeper travel, is referred to in literature, in detective fiction, that could form another book all by itself," says Meara. Pictured here: A colorful North British Railway poster 1920 -- this poster shows Ben Nevis in the center.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>New experience</strong>: The Caledonian Sleeper train is being revamped with new luxury double-beds and luxurious trappings. "I think it will be a more -- certainly if you pay top whack -- it will be a more luxurious experience, akin to the heyday in the '20s and '30s," says Meara. <em>Pictured here: The Night Mail LMS poster from 1924 by Sir William Orpen. This poster depicts the locomotive crew hard at work as the train carries the mail through the night.</em>
New experience: The Caledonian Sleeper train is being revamped with new luxury double-beds and luxurious trappings. "I think it will be a more -- certainly if you pay top whack -- it will be a more luxurious experience, akin to the heyday in the '20s and '30s," says Meara. Pictured here: The Night Mail LMS poster from 1924 by Sir William Orpen. This poster depicts the locomotive crew hard at work as the train carries the mail through the night.
Courtesy Science and Society Picture Library/Amberley Books
<strong>Regular commute: </strong>Meara is concerned that these high prices shouldn't deter the regular commuters who use the service. "It will be a shame, I think, if it just became a sort of Orient Express-type tourism experience, rather than an ordinary working train, which is what it is at the moment," he says. <em>Pictured here: A passenger train waits at Spean Bridge on the West Highland Line in around 1900. </em>
Regular commute: Meara is concerned that these high prices shouldn't deter the regular commuters who use the service. "It will be a shame, I think, if it just became a sort of Orient Express-type tourism experience, rather than an ordinary working train, which is what it is at the moment," he says. Pictured here: A passenger train waits at Spean Bridge on the West Highland Line in around 1900.
Courtesy David Meara's Collection/Amberley Books

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