
Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
Nicosia is the last divided capital in the world. The Buffer Zone is patrolled by U.N. soldiers. Today a new generation of artists, poets and musicians are moving to the city's historic old town, hoping to mend the divide.

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
In the center of the old town, a matter-of-fact sign on the wall near the Ledra Street crossing declares that you are standing in "the last divided capital" in the world.

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
The Office, a fashion boutique and art gallery, sits right near the Green Line -- the dividing line that separates the northern part of the city from the south. Off-duty soldiers from the nearby Guard Station 103 regularly attend the gallery's events and openings.

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
Monsieur Doumani -- a band that update traditional Cypriot music with modern, political lyrics -- perform in venues along the Green Line. "Whether you like it or not, you are somehow involved in all this, so if you are an artist based in Nicosia, it is almost impossible to close your eyes and not be influenced or inspired by the political issues," says singer Antonis Antoniou.

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
The kebab shop Berlin No 2 sits on a barricaded street on the south side of the city. Customers order beer and souvlaki beneath a sign that reads "Checkpoint Charlie".

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
The rustic Xaratsi cafe sits right next to the buffer zone and comes alive in the evening. "People from all different paths of life visit us daily. From the prostitutes that work the corner to priests, backpackers to politicians, writers, musicians, unemployed young people, artists, anarchists, rappers, everyone," says owner Stavros Lambrakis.

Nicosia: the last divided capital in the world —
No Border Underwear, just near the Ledra Street checkpoint, celebrates its location with an unmistakable irony


