
Where the elephants roam —
Far from major cities, Namibia's Caprivi Panhandle is a lush, scarcely populated region of swamps, floodplains and woodlands. The 450 animal species found here include herds of elephants that have doubled their population over the past decade, to an estimated 16,000. The region is bordered by communal conservancies.

Rafts of hippos —
Wildlife in the Caprivi freshwater delta was obliterated under South African Army occupation during Namibia's fight for independence. But populations have rebounded as now-independent Namibia has committed itself to wildlife protection. One beneficiary has been the hippo -- rafts of hippos (as the herds are called) are at their highest numbers in decades.

Buffalo rebound —
Weighing up to a ton, buffalo in Namibia were once relentlessly hunted for meat. Now, the species has excellent prospects in the Caprivi and other parts of Namibia due to ambitious conservation programs.

Apex predators —
The apex of the avian world in the Caprivi Panhandle is the African fish eagle, similar in size to the North American bald eagle. The birds catch fish by executing a shallow dive, talons extended, then swinging their catch upward.

Elephants without borders —
A migratory species, elephants don't recognize human inventions such as borders but the Namibian government has worked to lessen the impact of their roaming upon human populations. The paradox of elephant conservation in Namibia? While the animals are rapidly declining in the rest of Africa, here the challenge is to cope with a steadily increasing population.

Big cats, big sleep —
Thanks to a dramatic decrease in poaching, Namibia is the only African country with an expanding, free-roaming lion population. In the endless arid mineral depression of Etosha (meaning "Place of Dry Water"), the cats spend 20 hours a day sleeping in the searing heat. Come evenings, the prides awake to cooler temperatures and rendezvous at waterholes to stalk zebra and antelope.

The regal oryx —
From space, the Etosha Pan dominates all other features in southern Africa. Waterholes are the prime wildlife watching zones in this vast, dry area. Here you might see the Namibian oryx, a regal African antelope whose males have been known to gore attacking lions with sharp horns that grow to more than 70 centimeters.

Star attraction —
Clinging to a precarious existence in the rest of Africa due to huge black market sums paid for their horn, rhinos have become star attractions in Namibia, where poaching carries a social stigma. The private Ongava Reserve, in the Etosha National Park, provides the rare opportunity to see both black and white (pictured) rhinos.

Striped encounters —
Zebra are scattered in large number throughout Etosha and close encounters are practically assured. You can easily drive through the park: cars won't put the animals off. But you have to leave at sunset, or risk spending the night in your vehicle surrounded by sharp-toothed prowlers.

Lifeline for wildlife —
In Etosha, perennial waterholes such as Okaukuejo provide a lifeline for wildlife. From an adjoining rest camp, you can watch elephant, zebra, kudu and springbok taking water. Lions often visit, scattering other species; at night, when the waterhole is illuminated, black rhino are regular visitors.


