
Street art: Ipoh visitors will come across murals by Ernest Zacharevic -- the Lithuanian artist often credited with making street art trendy in Malaysian cities -- and local artists like Eric Lai.

Ipoh, Malaysia: This former tin mining city has seen rapid growth recently, with a crop of hotels, cafes, museums and street art popping up in the historic center.

Burps & Giggles: "Before, there wasn't one place where people gathered. Now, everyone who comes makes Old Town their first stop," says Julie Song of Burps and Giggles cafe, part of the city's new face.

Sin Eng Heong: Sin Eng Heong is synonymous with Ipoh's famous kaya puff -- filled with jam made with coconut milk and egg. On weekends you'll see a long line outside the bakery all day.

White coffee: To make Ipoh's white coffee, coffee beans are roasted with margarine, without sugar, which results in a lighter colored coffee. For a light breakfast, pair it with margarine toast topped with half-boiled eggs.

The lion maker: Teh Wing Liang, 42, has been making lion heads since he was 15 and says his style is modern. "I paint each one differently from the next. I make it up as I go along," he says.

Concubine Lane: So nicknamed because the late tin tycoon Yau Tet Shin kept his second wife here, "Concubine Lane" is flanked by a colorful crew of eateries and shops.

Sinhalese Bar: The Sinhalese Bar, founded in 1931, offers cowboy-style swing doors and bygone charm. Alfred Perera, pictured here, was born and bred in this shophouse and still lives upstairs.

27 Concubine Lane: 27 Concubine Lane is a homestay in a restored 1908 shophouse owned by a Malaysian-British couple. It retains many original features, with other parts -- windows, floorboards, latticework -- sourced from a salvage yard.

Traditional eats: To to see how Ipoh's famous heong peng biscuits are baked, visit the house at 362 Jalan Gunung Rapat in the morning.

Paris Restaurant: In spite of the name, Paris Restaurant specializes in hakka me noodles. They're perfectly springy, flat egg noodles, topped with bean sprouts and minced meat caramelized with soy sauce and fish sauce, usually accompaniment by chili and garlic-ginger sauce.

Yasmin at Kong Heng: Yasmin at Kong Heng showcases the films of the late Malaysian director Yasmin Ahmad, known for her moving explorations of race.

Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat: Nestled between limestone hills, Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat is just 15 minutes from the city. Each villa has its own plunge pool with water piped in from the hot springs, and there are four communal garden pods. A short walking trail leads directly to the Lost World of Tambun theme park.

Nasi ganja: The nickname "nasi ganja" has become inextricably linked to the Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah stall at the Yong Suan kopitiam, founded in the 1950s. Don't get too excited. The food is all legal.

Tuck Kee: Popular local restaurant Tuck Kee only opens in the evenings. A meal here isn't complete without the boiled octopus doused in garlic oil and soy sauce.



