Hargeisa is the capital of Somaliland, a self-declared nation-state. The fact that the country isn't recognized beyond its borders hasn't stopped the city's residents from transforming it from a battle-scarred shell into a thriving destination.
Lunch break —
Hargeisa is the capital of Somaliland, a self-declared nation-state. The fact that the country isn't recognized beyond its borders hasn't stopped the city's residents from transforming it from a battle-scarred shell into a thriving destination.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
People from the Afar tribe perform a cultural show in Hargeisa. Despite lack of international recognition, the city's boisterous, welcoming inhabitants don't let global politics get them down.
Afar tribeswomen —
People from the Afar tribe perform a cultural show in Hargeisa. Despite lack of international recognition, the city's boisterous, welcoming inhabitants don't let global politics get them down.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Somalilanders are not shy -- walking down Hargeisa's streets visitors will likely encounter numerous questions about where they are from.
Inquisitive locals —
Somalilanders are not shy -- walking down Hargeisa's streets visitors will likely encounter numerous questions about where they are from.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Donkey carts still ply the streets the capital, a sign that the city is still emerging from years of conflict and neglect.
City of contrasts —
Donkey carts still ply the streets the capital, a sign that the city is still emerging from years of conflict and neglect.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
But modernity is arriving fast. These Toyota importers sell 4x4 cars that compete for space on the city's streets with more traditional vehicles.
Modern cars —
But modernity is arriving fast. These Toyota importers sell 4x4 cars that compete for space on the city's streets with more traditional vehicles.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
As this photo from 1999 shows, Hargeisa was severely affected by the civil war that beset it in the 1980s. Barely anything survived the conflict.
Scars of conflict —
As this photo from 1999 shows, Hargeisa was severely affected by the civil war that beset it in the 1980s. Barely anything survived the conflict.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
While some buildings still bear the scars of war, much of the city has been rebuilt, with assistance from Somaliland's diaspora.
Hargeisa mosque —
While some buildings still bear the scars of war, much of the city has been rebuilt, with assistance from Somaliland's diaspora.
Hargeisa has a famous camel market. Exports of the cantankerous beasts is one of the biggest sources of income for Somaliland
Camel market —
Hargeisa has a famous camel market. Exports of the cantankerous beasts is one of the biggest sources of income for Somaliland
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Deliciously sweet milky Somali tea brewed in great vats at what seems like every street corner. Here, two boys are having a fresh cup of Somali yogurt, made from cow milk.
Drinks stand —
Deliciously sweet milky Somali tea brewed in great vats at what seems like every street corner. Here, two boys are having a fresh cup of Somali yogurt, made from cow milk.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
The central market below the main thoroughfare of Independence Road contains a warren of tight lanes hiding everything from perfume, clothes and electronic goods to tinned foods, fruits, vegetables, and pyramids of dazzlingly colored spices.
Cow and camel milk stall —
The central market below the main thoroughfare of Independence Road contains a warren of tight lanes hiding everything from perfume, clothes and electronic goods to tinned foods, fruits, vegetables, and pyramids of dazzlingly colored spices.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
With the international community refusing to recognize Somaliland's independence, its economy remains cut off from large-scale international assistance and global financial systems.
Lack of recognition —
With the international community refusing to recognize Somaliland's independence, its economy remains cut off from large-scale international assistance and global financial systems.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
The safety of Hargeisa's streets is illustrated by the large quantities of money that money changers stack around them without fear of theft.
Street money —
The safety of Hargeisa's streets is illustrated by the large quantities of money that money changers stack around them without fear of theft.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Young girls at a wedding in the Crown Hotel in Hargeisa. A can-do attitude against the odds gives the city and its inhabitants much of their animated charm; and explains why locals are so pleased to meet unexpected foreign visitors.
Wedding guests —
Young girls at a wedding in the Crown Hotel in Hargeisa. A can-do attitude against the odds gives the city and its inhabitants much of their animated charm; and explains why locals are so pleased to meet unexpected foreign visitors.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Noisy telecommunication stores burst with activity one moment then empty in response to the call to prayer from mosques the next.
Phones and faith —
Noisy telecommunication stores burst with activity one moment then empty in response to the call to prayer from mosques the next.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
A man purchases a bundle of the narcotic plant khat, which is hugely popular in Hargeisa.
Khat stall —
A man purchases a bundle of the narcotic plant khat, which is hugely popular in Hargeisa.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures
Hargeisa serves as a good base from where to take in Somaliland's other attractions, including some of the world's oldest rock art in the Las Geel caves 50 kilometers from the city.
Cave art —
Hargeisa serves as a good base from where to take in Somaliland's other attractions, including some of the world's oldest rock art in the Las Geel caves 50 kilometers from the city.
Petterik Wiggers/Panos Pictures