
Cleaning up on Kilimanjaro —
Much has changed on Kilimanjaro -- Africa's highest peak -- since the days of camps among open-air latrines, trash littering the landscape and congested trails. Initiatives have turned an ecological problem into a manageable one that's also good for local business.

Kili conquerors —
Each year, some 40,000 people attempt to climb Kilimanjaro.

Porters of Kili —
Porter working conditions have improved in recent years thanks to initiatives such as the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project, which helps ensure good conditions, lends clothing and provides training.

Balancing act —
The Great Baranko Wall (also spelled Barranco), a cliff 300 meters high, is one of the most dangerous sections on the mountain. Porters carrying heavy weights on their shoulders struggle to balance on the tiny passages.

WC on Kili —
Much has changed since the days of camps among open-air latrines, trash littering the landscape and congested trails. The mountain is clean, with toilets at camps and along the routes.

Mystical mount —
New Shira camp at 3,840 meters above sea level.

Get down to get well —
Some climbers suffer from altitude sickness or exhaustion and have to be supported down the mountain, hand in hand, by their guides.

Going solo? —
Crowds potentially spoil the atmosphere of solitude on Kili. The author managed to climb alone thanks to advice from a local guide: start the climb at 10 a.m. when everyone else has returned.

Verdant trails —
On the first day of the climb hikers walk trough the forest belt. With its large, hearth-shaped leaves, the tall macaranga tree offers protection from the sun. Fig trees, junipers, nuxias and yellow-woods can be seen alongside orchids, violets, begonias and red balsam.

Top of Africa —
Alone on Uhuru Peak. Three corks from bottles of champagne were the only sign that somebody had been there earlier.

Big melt coming? —
The summit of Kilimanjaro is an arctic-like climate zone, with permanent snow and glaciers, though that description may soon be inaccurate. The glaciers are disappearing, changing the face of Kilimanjaro.

Planting a seed —
At Kilimanjaro, climbers venture through five ecosystems in the space of few kilometers. In the moorland at 3,500 meters the slopes are covered with tussock grass and giant lobelias.

Midnight trek —
The final bid to the summit of Kilimanjaro is often done at night. The author climbed during the day and successfully avoided the crowds.


