Inside Hong Kong’s Chungking Mansions | CNN

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Travel

Inside Hong Kong’s Chungking Mansions

Published 4:57 PM EDT, Mon August 5, 2013
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Located in Hong Kong's pulsing Tsim Sha Tsui district, Chungking Mansions inspires a unique fascination among visitors. Though it has a reputation for crime and disorder, the 17-story structure is home to merchants, traders, visitors and refugees from more than 130 countries. Originally built in 1961 as a luxury residence, the building has undergone numerous transformations, according to anthropologist Gordon Mathews of The Chinese University of Hong Kong.
Inside Hong Kong's Chungking Mansions —
Located in Hong Kong's pulsing Tsim Sha Tsui district, Chungking Mansions inspires a unique fascination among visitors. Though it has a reputation for crime and disorder, the 17-story structure is home to merchants, traders, visitors and refugees from more than 130 countries. Originally built in 1961 as a luxury residence, the building has undergone numerous transformations, according to anthropologist Gordon Mathews of The Chinese University of Hong Kong.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Today, the building is filled with shops, restaurants, guesthouses and residences. Approximately 4,000 people -- residents and guests -- stay in Chungking Mansions each night.
Contemporary bustle —
Today, the building is filled with shops, restaurants, guesthouses and residences. Approximately 4,000 people -- residents and guests -- stay in Chungking Mansions each night.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Locals refer to it as a "mini United Nations" for a reason: Chungking Mansions is easily the most diverse place in the city. "The big surprise upon entering is that you're immediately in a world that's not Hong Kong Chinese," says Mathews. Many residents and visitors are from Africa and South Asia.
Hong Kong's melting pot —
Locals refer to it as a "mini United Nations" for a reason: Chungking Mansions is easily the most diverse place in the city. "The big surprise upon entering is that you're immediately in a world that's not Hong Kong Chinese," says Mathews. Many residents and visitors are from Africa and South Asia.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Thousands of business exchanges take place in Chungking Mansions every day. Mathews says these transactions are mostly backed on "the basis of trust, often without contracts, and somewhat under the shadow of law."
Business trust —
Thousands of business exchanges take place in Chungking Mansions every day. Mathews says these transactions are mostly backed on "the basis of trust, often without contracts, and somewhat under the shadow of law."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
The proprietor of this shop was born in Hong Kong and has lived in the city his entire life. His deli specializes in Southeast Asian food.
Serving the local market —
The proprietor of this shop was born in Hong Kong and has lived in the city his entire life. His deli specializes in Southeast Asian food.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
On the mansion's first floor, a watch dealer rests between customers. They are coming, aren't they?
Watching time go by —
On the mansion's first floor, a watch dealer rests between customers. They are coming, aren't they?
Wilfred Chan/CNN
According to Mathews, in 2008 Chungking Mansions was supplying up to 15 to 20% of Africa's cell phones. Huge quantities of phones -- many knockoffs -- are imported from South China, traded within the building, then shipped to faraway countries. Mathews says the trade has diminished in recent years because new smartphones are more difficult to copy.
"Do you copy?" —
According to Mathews, in 2008 Chungking Mansions was supplying up to 15 to 20% of Africa's cell phones. Huge quantities of phones -- many knockoffs -- are imported from South China, traded within the building, then shipped to faraway countries. Mathews says the trade has diminished in recent years because new smartphones are more difficult to copy.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Language barriers and perceptions of unequal treatment by police for some groups are sources of tension. Local social organizations help mediate conflicts. Overall, the building is safe for visitors and tourists.
Local tensions —
Language barriers and perceptions of unequal treatment by police for some groups are sources of tension. Local social organizations help mediate conflicts. Overall, the building is safe for visitors and tourists.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
The alleys encircling Chungking Mansions are lined with discarded items and trash, but also serve as gathering areas. According to Mathews, in years gone by the alleys were home to a whiskey stall, as well as "50 or so Nepalese heroin addicts."
Gritty surroundings —
The alleys encircling Chungking Mansions are lined with discarded items and trash, but also serve as gathering areas. According to Mathews, in years gone by the alleys were home to a whiskey stall, as well as "50 or so Nepalese heroin addicts."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Chungking Mansions' second floor is quieter than the ground level. As traders work in the background, a mannequin stands ready for transport.
Business focus —
Chungking Mansions' second floor is quieter than the ground level. As traders work in the background, a mannequin stands ready for transport.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
This Pakistani man came to Chungking Mansions at the age of 19. Now he's one of the community's oldest members. "My son was born here," he explains in fluent Cantonese. "Today he runs a store on the first floor."
Legacy resident —
This Pakistani man came to Chungking Mansions at the age of 19. Now he's one of the community's oldest members. "My son was born here," he explains in fluent Cantonese. "Today he runs a store on the first floor."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
The upper floors of Chungking Mansions are filled with guesthouses, residences and offices. While many of the lodgings are among Hong Kong's cheapest -- Chungking Mansions is a favorite for budget travelers -- some are luxurious, with flat screen TVs.
Budget beside luxury —
The upper floors of Chungking Mansions are filled with guesthouses, residences and offices. While many of the lodgings are among Hong Kong's cheapest -- Chungking Mansions is a favorite for budget travelers -- some are luxurious, with flat screen TVs.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
On the third floor, an arrow points the way to the Taj Mahal Club, one of the building's many popular curry restaurants.
Taj Mahal Club —
On the third floor, an arrow points the way to the Taj Mahal Club, one of the building's many popular curry restaurants.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Chungking Mansions' upper level floor plans are divided into unlinked blocks, which are inaccessible to each other. Far removed from cacophonous energy of the ground levels, the upper levels are a different world.  For some residents, says Mathews, "there's a sense of isolation ... What goes on in every apartment upstairs, we can't really know."
Isolation amid the crowd —
Chungking Mansions' upper level floor plans are divided into unlinked blocks, which are inaccessible to each other. Far removed from cacophonous energy of the ground levels, the upper levels are a different world. For some residents, says Mathews, "there's a sense of isolation ... What goes on in every apartment upstairs, we can't really know."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Multilingual graffiti is common in Chungking Mansions. Along with drawings of Disney characters, vandals often leave poems or messages for friends and lovers.
Graffitii tradition —
Multilingual graffiti is common in Chungking Mansions. Along with drawings of Disney characters, vandals often leave poems or messages for friends and lovers.
Wilfred Chan/CNN
On the top floor of Chungking Mansions, the Christian Action Service Centre provides food, education and pro-bono counseling to nearly 500 refugees and asylum seekers each month. Manager Julee Allen (pictured) says refugees often arrive in Hong Kong with "extensive needs."
Refugee magnet —
On the top floor of Chungking Mansions, the Christian Action Service Centre provides food, education and pro-bono counseling to nearly 500 refugees and asylum seekers each month. Manager Julee Allen (pictured) says refugees often arrive in Hong Kong with "extensive needs."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Preparing a Ramadan meal for refugees in the Christian Action Service Centre. About 50 to 100 refugees visit the center daily. "Sometimes they have problems with their housing," says manager Julee Allen "Other times they have unaddressed medical needs. And sometimes they'll just drop in to say hi."
Chungking Ramadan —
Preparing a Ramadan meal for refugees in the Christian Action Service Centre. About 50 to 100 refugees visit the center daily. "Sometimes they have problems with their housing," says manager Julee Allen "Other times they have unaddressed medical needs. And sometimes they'll just drop in to say hi."
Wilfred Chan/CNN
Mathews says that wise management has helped keep Chungking Mansions intact over the years. But as with many places in the city, its long-term future remains uncertain. "I've never known any building that lasts forever," says Mathews. "Is there any building that doesn't get torn down? This is Hong Kong."
How long will Chungking Mansions last? —
Mathews says that wise management has helped keep Chungking Mansions intact over the years. But as with many places in the city, its long-term future remains uncertain. "I've never known any building that lasts forever," says Mathews. "Is there any building that doesn't get torn down? This is Hong Kong."
Wilfred Chan/CNN

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