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Taiwan’s stunning 106-year-old mountain railway

By Maggie Hiufu Wong, CNN
Published 8:55 PM EDT, Tue September 18, 2018
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<strong>Visiting Alishan: </strong>Built more than 100 years ago, the Alishan Forest Railway is perhaps the best way to explore Alishan, one of Taiwan's most important mountain ranges. Lai Guo-hua, an aerial photographer who lives next to the railway, spent more than three years documenting it.
Visiting Alishan: Built more than 100 years ago, the Alishan Forest Railway is perhaps the best way to explore Alishan, one of Taiwan's most important mountain ranges. Lai Guo-hua, an aerial photographer who lives next to the railway, spent more than three years documenting it.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>Understanding Alishan Railway: </strong>The railway begins on flatland at an elevation of 30 meters and climbs 2,451 meters to Chushan Station, the highest station in Taiwan.
Understanding Alishan Railway: The railway begins on flatland at an elevation of 30 meters and climbs 2,451 meters to Chushan Station, the highest station in Taiwan.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>Logging-turned-tourist train: </strong>Since 1963, the Alishan Railway has primarily operated as a tourist train. It was once the only means of public transportation for those wanting to visit Alishan.
Logging-turned-tourist train: Since 1963, the Alishan Railway has primarily operated as a tourist train. It was once the only means of public transportation for those wanting to visit Alishan.
courtesy Liao Yuan-chiao
<strong>Heritage preservation: </strong>After multiple changes in management, the Forestry Bureau created a dedicated Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office (AFRCH) to take over a few months ago. "Alishan Railway is a priceless cultural heritage [for Taiwan]. Therefore, preserving the Alishan Railway isn't just for tourism purposes but for promoting this culture," Tang Yu-chin, an AFRCH spokesperson, tells CNN.
Heritage preservation: After multiple changes in management, the Forestry Bureau created a dedicated Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office (AFRCH) to take over a few months ago. "Alishan Railway is a priceless cultural heritage [for Taiwan]. Therefore, preserving the Alishan Railway isn't just for tourism purposes but for promoting this culture," Tang Yu-chin, an AFRCH spokesperson, tells CNN.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>Most beautiful station: </strong>Situated on a cliff edge, Erwanping Station is known for its sunsets and cloud views. "When I saw this vast sea of clouds, right in front of the station, I wanted -- for the first time in all these years of railway photographing -- to just sit quietly on the station and appreciate this paradise on earth," says Lai.
Most beautiful station: Situated on a cliff edge, Erwanping Station is known for its sunsets and cloud views. "When I saw this vast sea of clouds, right in front of the station, I wanted -- for the first time in all these years of railway photographing -- to just sit quietly on the station and appreciate this paradise on earth," says Lai.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>Cool railway formations: </strong>Alishan Railway features a loop line and spiral route track design, as well S-type lines, 180-degree U-turn lines and Z-type lines. It's rare to experience all these formations in one single railway system.
Cool railway formations: Alishan Railway features a loop line and spiral route track design, as well S-type lines, 180-degree U-turn lines and Z-type lines. It's rare to experience all these formations in one single railway system.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>Loop line and spiral route:</strong> This picture shows the spiral loop track on Dulishan Railway Station. "I took a photo as the train passed through each of the levels and combined the photos of all four levels into one," says Lai.
Loop line and spiral route: This picture shows the spiral loop track on Dulishan Railway Station. "I took a photo as the train passed through each of the levels and combined the photos of all four levels into one," says Lai.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>How to ride the Alishan Railway: </strong>Only one train departs from Chiayi at 9 a.m on weekdays and two more (at 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.) during the weekends. To go to Alishan, travelers can take the main line from Chiayi Station to Fenqihu Station (2 hours 20 minutes) and continue the journey by bus from Fenqihu Station to Alishan Station.
How to ride the Alishan Railway: Only one train departs from Chiayi at 9 a.m on weekdays and two more (at 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.) during the weekends. To go to Alishan, travelers can take the main line from Chiayi Station to Fenqihu Station (2 hours 20 minutes) and continue the journey by bus from Fenqihu Station to Alishan Station.
courtesy Liao Yuan-chiao
<strong>Alishan National Scenic Area: </strong>Once you've arrived at Alishan Station, you're inside the Alishan National Scenic Area, where the Alishan Railway runs three shorter lines to Shenmu, Zhaoping and Chushan.
Alishan National Scenic Area: Once you've arrived at Alishan Station, you're inside the Alishan National Scenic Area, where the Alishan Railway runs three shorter lines to Shenmu, Zhaoping and Chushan.
courtesy Liao Yuan-chiao
<strong>Best time to visit Alishan: </strong>Alishan is popular during fall for autumn foliage-viewing. But cherry blossom season is another Instagram-worthy time to visit -- usually from March to May. A special steam train runs through the pink blossoms once a week.
Best time to visit Alishan: Alishan is popular during fall for autumn foliage-viewing. But cherry blossom season is another Instagram-worthy time to visit -- usually from March to May. A special steam train runs through the pink blossoms once a week.
courtesy Liao Yuan-chiao
<strong>Bento Kingdom: </strong>Fenqihu was once the main rest stop before arriving at Alishan, making it a popular destination for hungry workers and train travelers.
Bento Kingdom: Fenqihu was once the main rest stop before arriving at Alishan, making it a popular destination for hungry workers and train travelers.
courtesy Lai Guo-hua
<strong>100-year-old street: </strong>Fenqihu is now one of the biggest towns along Alishan Railway and has a few historical attractions like the 100-year-old food street.
100-year-old street: Fenqihu is now one of the biggest towns along Alishan Railway and has a few historical attractions like the 100-year-old food street.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>What to eat on Alishan: </strong>Aiyu, a natural jelly formed from a fruit called Aiyu, is an Alishan specialty. Discovered first in Chiayi, Aiyu is mostly harvested by indigenous farmers in Taiwan.
What to eat on Alishan: Aiyu, a natural jelly formed from a fruit called Aiyu, is an Alishan specialty. Discovered first in Chiayi, Aiyu is mostly harvested by indigenous farmers in Taiwan.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Going back in time:</strong> Due to its humid climate, electrical systems don't work well. Thus many railway operations are still carried out manually, such as track direction switches.
Going back in time: Due to its humid climate, electrical systems don't work well. Thus many railway operations are still carried out manually, such as track direction switches.
courtesy Liao Yuan-chiao
<strong>Cypress-wood car: </strong>"It feels more human, unlike the cold and automated modern machines," says Liao Yuan-chiao. A train enthusiast, Liao left his job as a lecturer six years ago to work as a train assistant on the railway. He's now a train captain. This is a special cypress-wood car modeled after the original.
Cypress-wood car: "It feels more human, unlike the cold and automated modern machines," says Liao Yuan-chiao. A train enthusiast, Liao left his job as a lecturer six years ago to work as a train assistant on the railway. He's now a train captain. This is a special cypress-wood car modeled after the original.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Walking trails: </strong>There are many walking trails around Alishan that will guide visitors to attractions like Jiemei Lake.
Walking trails: There are many walking trails around Alishan that will guide visitors to attractions like Jiemei Lake.
courtesy Alishan Railway/Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office
<strong>Sunrise on Alishan: </strong>Chushan Line is the most popular of the four operating Alishan Railway lines. It runs one return trip a day, ferrying travelers to Chushan to catch the sunrise.
Sunrise on Alishan: Chushan Line is the most popular of the four operating Alishan Railway lines. It runs one return trip a day, ferrying travelers to Chushan to catch the sunrise.
courtesy Alishan Railway/Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office
<strong>Steam train: </strong>The Alishan Railway will run a special vintage steam train once a week during cherry blossom season from March to May, and on Alishan Railway's birthday (December 25) each year.
Steam train: The Alishan Railway will run a special vintage steam train once a week during cherry blossom season from March to May, and on Alishan Railway's birthday (December 25) each year.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>'Spirited Away' hiking trail: </strong>One of the coolest hiking trails is the 1.6-kilometer Shuishan trail, where an unassuming and hidden entrance takes walkers along a defunct and moss-covered train track.
'Spirited Away' hiking trail: One of the coolest hiking trails is the 1.6-kilometer Shuishan trail, where an unassuming and hidden entrance takes walkers along a defunct and moss-covered train track.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>2,700-year-old tree: </strong>While many of the Taiwan cypress trees were cut during the Japanese occupation, the remaining ones are protected. This is the oldest tree in the forest.
2,700-year-old tree: While many of the Taiwan cypress trees were cut during the Japanese occupation, the remaining ones are protected. This is the oldest tree in the forest.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Train enthusiasts' heaven: </strong>The narrow-gauge train runs through meandering mountain roads.
Train enthusiasts' heaven: The narrow-gauge train runs through meandering mountain roads.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Retro stations: </strong>Some of the stations along the Alishan Railway are worth a visit, including Jhuchi Station. It's been rebuilt in wood according to its original Japanese architectural style.
Retro stations: Some of the stations along the Alishan Railway are worth a visit, including Jhuchi Station. It's been rebuilt in wood according to its original Japanese architectural style.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Hinoki Village: </strong>Dating back to 1914, Hinoki Village (next to Beimen Station) hosted dormitories for Japanese officials stationed there during the  occupation. Some 28 wooden houses inside the village have been renovated and are now used as shops and restaurants.
Hinoki Village: Dating back to 1914, Hinoki Village (next to Beimen Station) hosted dormitories for Japanese officials stationed there during the occupation. Some 28 wooden houses inside the village have been renovated and are now used as shops and restaurants.
Maggie Wong/CNN
<strong>Antique cafe: </strong>2030 Old-time Chiayi is a cafe packed with countless vintage treasures, including the 100-year-old tobacco counter at the cashier.
Antique cafe: 2030 Old-time Chiayi is a cafe packed with countless vintage treasures, including the 100-year-old tobacco counter at the cashier.
Maggie Wong/CNN

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