For decades, France has been the fashion industry's spiritual home and creative epicenter. Exclusively for CNN Style, designer Jean Paul Gaultier reflects on the groundbreaking designers who shaped France's style. (Pictured: Jean Paul Gaultier, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015)
A history of rebellion —
For decades, France has been the fashion industry's spiritual home and creative epicenter. Exclusively for CNN Style, designer Jean Paul Gaultier reflects on the groundbreaking designers who shaped France's style. (Pictured: Jean Paul Gaultier, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015)
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Couturier Christian Dior caused an international frenzy in 1947 when he introduced the "New Look," an hourglass silhouette that had all but disappeared from fashion during WWII. (Pictured: Christian Dior with models at London's Savoy Hotel, 1950)
Christian Dior —
Couturier Christian Dior caused an international frenzy in 1947 when he introduced the "New Look," an hourglass silhouette that had all but disappeared from fashion during WWII. (Pictured: Christian Dior with models at London's Savoy Hotel, 1950)
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"His February 1947 collection's signature rebelled against wartime uniforms, austerity and fabric restrictions — the waist was cinched, calves were shown and busts were celebrated," says Gaultier. (Pictured: Models wear Christian Dior designs at London's Savoy Hotel, 1950)
Christian Dior —
"His February 1947 collection's signature rebelled against wartime uniforms, austerity and fabric restrictions — the waist was cinched, calves were shown and busts were celebrated," says Gaultier. (Pictured: Models wear Christian Dior designs at London's Savoy Hotel, 1950)
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"Madame Grès had a wonderful haute couture house, Grès, and she worked in her own universe." (Pictured: Madame Grès with models outside London's Dorchester Hotel, 1971)
Madame Grès —
"Madame Grès had a wonderful haute couture house, Grès, and she worked in her own universe." (Pictured: Madame Grès with models outside London's Dorchester Hotel, 1971)
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"Originally a sculptor, her silk jersey pleated dresses looked as though they had been pulled out of ancient Greece." (Pictured: A 1952 Madame Gres dress displayed at the Bourdelle Museum in Paris, 2011)
Madame Grès —
"Originally a sculptor, her silk jersey pleated dresses looked as though they had been pulled out of ancient Greece." (Pictured: A 1952 Madame Gres dress displayed at the Bourdelle Museum in Paris, 2011)
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Gaultier cut his teeth working in the atelier of designer Pierre Cardin, known for his futuristic aesthetic. (Pictured: Elizabeth Taylor (left) with designer Pierre Cardin, wearing a headdress of his own design in 1967)
Pierre Cardin —
Gaultier cut his teeth working in the atelier of designer Pierre Cardin, known for his futuristic aesthetic. (Pictured: Elizabeth Taylor (left) with designer Pierre Cardin, wearing a headdress of his own design in 1967)
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"I'd always admired Cardin because he seemed like such a showman. He was so free, doing these geometric, sometimes abstract designs that were like architecture, which he had studied before he went into fashion." (Pictured: A model walks the runway at Pierre Cardin, 1972)
Pierre Cardin —
"I'd always admired Cardin because he seemed like such a showman. He was so free, doing these geometric, sometimes abstract designs that were like architecture, which he had studied before he went into fashion." (Pictured: A model walks the runway at Pierre Cardin, 1972)
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"From early on I was always under the impression that (André Courrèges) was starting a revolution." (Pictured: André Courrèges with a model wearing one of his Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1967 designs, 1967)
André Courrèges —
"From early on I was always under the impression that (André Courrèges) was starting a revolution." (Pictured: André Courrèges with a model wearing one of his Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1967 designs, 1967)
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"He was actually dressing the real woman of the 1960's — a modern woman who drove, rather than sipping cocktails at home." (Pictured: A model wears André Courrèges, 1967)
André Courrèges —
"He was actually dressing the real woman of the 1960's — a modern woman who drove, rather than sipping cocktails at home." (Pictured: A model wears André Courrèges, 1967)
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Paco Rabanne may have been born in Spain, but he made France is home. His metallic dresses -- pieced together from different metals or coated plastics -- became a fashion staple for pop and screen stars in the 1960s. (Pictured: Paco Rabanne with model Isabel Feldel, wearing one of his designs, 1967)
Paco Rabanne —
Paco Rabanne may have been born in Spain, but he made France is home. His metallic dresses -- pieced together from different metals or coated plastics -- became a fashion staple for pop and screen stars in the 1960s. (Pictured: Paco Rabanne with model Isabel Feldel, wearing one of his designs, 1967)
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"It was everywhere, worn by all the major <em>yé-yé</em> singers -- the rock and roll girls of France — and Brigitte Bardot and Barbarella also wore Paco Rabanne." (Pictured: Models wear Paco Rabanne evening dresses, 1967)
"It was everywhere, worn by all the major yé-yé singers -- the rock and roll girls of France — and Brigitte Bardot and Barbarella also wore Paco Rabanne." (Pictured: Models wear Paco Rabanne evening dresses, 1967)
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Yves Saint Laurent was at the creative helm of Christian Dior before branching out to start his own eponymous label in 1960. (Pictured: Yves Saint with friends and muses Betty Catroux and Loulou de la Falaise outside of his Paris Rive Gauche shop, 1969)
Yves Saint Laurent —
Yves Saint Laurent was at the creative helm of Christian Dior before branching out to start his own eponymous label in 1960. (Pictured: Yves Saint with friends and muses Betty Catroux and Loulou de la Falaise outside of his Paris Rive Gauche shop, 1969)
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He's commonly credited for legitimizing ready-to-wear in the eyes of fashion's elite. But in terms of design, the creation of "le smoking," a tuxedo for women, was what he was most notorious for. (Pictured: A model wears a pinstripe Yves Saint Laurent smoking, 1967)
Yves Saint Laurent —
He's commonly credited for legitimizing ready-to-wear in the eyes of fashion's elite. But in terms of design, the creation of "le smoking," a tuxedo for women, was what he was most notorious for. (Pictured: A model wears a pinstripe Yves Saint Laurent smoking, 1967)
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After stints at Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, Gaultier founded his own label in 1976. His collections often reference androgyny, punk and French history, and balance humor with impeccable craftsmanship. (Pictured: Models walk Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring-Summer 1987 runway, 1986)
Jean Paul Gaultier —
After stints at Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, Gaultier founded his own label in 1976. His collections often reference androgyny, punk and French history, and balance humor with impeccable craftsmanship. (Pictured: Models walk Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring-Summer 1987 runway, 1986)
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Early on, his risqué and unconventional designs had him branded fashion's enfant terrible by the fashion press. (Pictured: A model walks the catwalk at Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 1993, 1992)
Jean Paul Gaultier —
Early on, his risqué and unconventional designs had him branded fashion's enfant terrible by the fashion press. (Pictured: A model walks the catwalk at Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 1993, 1992)
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Gaultier's approach to casting and production was equally progressive. He's one of few designers to consistently feature models of color on the catwalk and, in 2011, he was one of the first designers to work with trans model Andreja Pejic (who then went by Andrej). (Pictured: Andreja Pejic walks Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2011)
Jean Paul Gaultier —
Gaultier's approach to casting and production was equally progressive. He's one of few designers to consistently feature models of color on the catwalk and, in 2011, he was one of the first designers to work with trans model Andreja Pejic (who then went by Andrej). (Pictured: Andreja Pejic walks Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2011)
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While he was a divisive figure early in his career, Gaultier is now part of the fashion establishment. (Pictured: Jean Paul Gaultier with model Anna Cleavland at his Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015 runway show)
While he was a divisive figure early in his career, Gaultier is now part of the fashion establishment. (Pictured: Jean Paul Gaultier with model Anna Cleavland at his Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015 runway show)
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Who are Gaultier's French designers to watch? "Olivier Rousteing makes beautiful clothes for beautiful people at Balmain." (Pictured: Balmain Autumn-Winter 2015)
Olivier Rousteing for Balmain —
Who are Gaultier's French designers to watch? "Olivier Rousteing makes beautiful clothes for beautiful people at Balmain." (Pictured: Balmain Autumn-Winter 2015)
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Nicolas Ghesquière was Gaultier's assistant from 1990 to 1992. He first made a name for himself as creative director of Balenciaga, and has headed Louis Vuitton since 2013. (Pictured: Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2016)
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton —
Nicolas Ghesquière was Gaultier's assistant from 1990 to 1992. He first made a name for himself as creative director of Balenciaga, and has headed Louis Vuitton since 2013. (Pictured: Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2016)
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"I love the attitude of Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent," says Gaultier. Like Yves Saint Laurent before him, Slimane is a polarizing designer whose designs often seem more casual and street-inspired than his contemporaries. (Pictured: Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 2015 )
Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent Paris —
"I love the attitude of Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent," says Gaultier. Like Yves Saint Laurent before him, Slimane is a polarizing designer whose designs often seem more casual and street-inspired than his contemporaries. (Pictured: Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 2015 )
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