Perfume’s mysteries unlocked | CNN

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The art of capturing fragrance

By Nick Gilbert, CNN
Published 9:18 PM EDT, Wed March 29, 2017
Link Copied!
Technology has greatly changed the way scent is captured and perfumes made in recent decades. Here, Headspace technology is used to take scent samples of an exotic flower in its natural environment, making it the least intrusive method of analyzing the chemical components of a plant. The volatile compounds from the flower and its environment are captured on a fine silicone wire, which is analyzed in a Gas Chromatograph Mass Spectrometer. This then generates a printout of all component molecules produced, acting like a 'photograph' of the smell.
Headspace technology —
Technology has greatly changed the way scent is captured and perfumes made in recent decades. Here, Headspace technology is used to take scent samples of an exotic flower in its natural environment, making it the least intrusive method of analyzing the chemical components of a plant. The volatile compounds from the flower and its environment are captured on a fine silicone wire, which is analyzed in a Gas Chromatograph Mass Spectrometer. This then generates a printout of all component molecules produced, acting like a 'photograph' of the smell.
IFF
'Mute' flowers, such as lily of the valley and lilac, cannot produce a natural extract and must be recreated in the lab. Headspace allows this to happen.
Headspace technology —
'Mute' flowers, such as lily of the valley and lilac, cannot produce a natural extract and must be recreated in the lab. Headspace allows this to happen.
IFF
The greenhouses at IFF's Laboratoire Monique Remy is full of plants for research into future naturals.
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) —
The greenhouses at IFF's Laboratoire Monique Remy is full of plants for research into future naturals.
IFF
The process of capturing a scent is largely mysterious to the world outside of the perfume industry. An employee of IFF manipulates perfume components at the company's laboratory in Neuilly-sur-Seine, near Paris, France.
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) —
The process of capturing a scent is largely mysterious to the world outside of the perfume industry. An employee of IFF manipulates perfume components at the company's laboratory in Neuilly-sur-Seine, near Paris, France.
PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Clearwood is one of the most innovative materials to launch in the perfume industry in recent years. Created by scientists at fragrance house <a href="index.php?page=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.firmenich.com%2Fen_INT%2Findex.html" target="_blank" target="_blank">Firmenich</a>, it can be used as a replacement for patchouli owing to its similar chemical composition.
Clearwood technology —
Clearwood is one of the most innovative materials to launch in the perfume industry in recent years. Created by scientists at fragrance house Firmenich, it can be used as a replacement for patchouli owing to its similar chemical composition.
Firmenich
British perfumer Mark Buxton smells one of his creations at his workplace in Paris.
Max Burton —
British perfumer Mark Buxton smells one of his creations at his workplace in Paris.
MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
A Bulgarian woman holds a bag filled with picked rose petals in the Valley of Roses, near the town of Karlovo, in central Bulgaria. Its mild climate has made Bulgaria, along with Turkey and Morocco, one the world's three largest producers of rosa damascena, whose oil is a much-wanted perfumery substance.
A Bulgarian woman holds a bag filled with picked rose petals in the Valley of Roses, near the town of Karlovo, in central Bulgaria. Its mild climate has made Bulgaria, along with Turkey and Morocco, one the world's three largest producers of rosa damascena, whose oil is a much-wanted perfumery substance.
DIMITAR DILKOFF/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Women pick roses at dawn, ensuring the maximum quantity of oil in the petals in Isparta, Turkey.
Women pick roses at dawn, ensuring the maximum quantity of oil in the petals in Isparta, Turkey.
IFF
Harvested roses ready to be processed into rose essence.
Harvested roses ready to be processed into rose essence.
IFF
The Habana 1791 perfumery in Havana, Cuba still uses traditional methods for making its twelve different fragrances. Ingredients here include roses, gardenias, tobacco and orange blossoms.
Habana 1791, Cuba —
The Habana 1791 perfumery in Havana, Cuba still uses traditional methods for making its twelve different fragrances. Ingredients here include roses, gardenias, tobacco and orange blossoms.
RODRIGO ARANGUA/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Students at work in a laboratory at the Givaudan Perfumery School in Argenteuil, a northern suburb of Paris, France. The school opened in 1946.
Students at work in a laboratory at the Givaudan Perfumery School in Argenteuil, a northern suburb of Paris, France. The school opened in 1946.
ERIC FEFERBERG/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

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