Discovery that flows with the rhythms of the sea in Japan’s Setouchi region

In the Setouchi region of western Japan, local ferries trace the maritime routes that once carried rice, salt, and daily life across the Seto Inland Sea, navigating the same channels that have linked island communities for centuries. Today, the gentle passage invites travelers to slow down and experience the region as it has always revealed itself best—at the natural pace of its inland sea and archipelago of more than 700 islands.

Hiroshima & Miyajima

A journey through Hiroshima often begins on Miyajima Island, home to freely roaming deer and the tide-framed Itsukushima Shrine, renowned for its iconic vermilion torii gate that appears to float on water at high tide.

Across the bay, contemporary culture meets the landscape at the Simose Art Museum, whose colorful galleries can be rearranged into different layouts inspired by the islands visible offshore. Named the ‘World’s Most Beautiful Museum’ at the Prix Versailles, the museum houses collections of Japanese dolls and Art Nouveau glassworks, while extending the experience overnight in minimalist luxury at Simose Art Garden Villa, nestled among trees and overlooking a reflecting basin.

Drifting back along the coastline toward the city, Hiroshima Station—a gateway to the Setouchi region—includes the Minamoa complex, where shops and restaurants showcase local flavors born of warm seas and citrus groves. From here, travelers can continue their journey via seamless rail, bus, and streetcar connections, or extend their pause at the new Hotel Granvia Hiroshima South Gate, directly connected to the station.

Shimanami Area

The area encompassing the islands and towns linked by the Shimanami Kaido—a 70-kilometer route of bridges and island roads connecting Hiroshima and Ehime prefectures across six islands—invites slow travel by bicycle.

At Onomichi, the eastern gateway to the route, discovery unfolds along narrow stone streets that meander through a hillside dotted with temples—a ‘miniature garden city’ setting that has long inspired writers, artists, and filmmakers. A stroll or ropeway ride to the hilltop rewards visitors with panoramic views from the cliffside Senkoji Temple. On the descent, Cat Alley, lined with cafés, galleries, and cats—both real and decorative—leads naturally toward the traditional bars and eateries of the Shingai district.

Farther along the coast, the Edo-period port town of Tomonoura offers a harbor that has served as a place of rest for ships and travelers for more than 1,200 years. Preserved merchant houses, storehouses, and shrines line the old town, with 19th-century stone landing steps along the water’s edge inviting a moment of pause before continuing the journey.

Multi-day itineraries allow travelers to linger longer along the Shimanami Kaido, including in Setoda, with stays such as Azumi Setoda, a refined ryokan set within a 140-year-old former residence of salt and shipping merchants. Nearby, Soil Setoda occupies a converted century-old warehouse beside Shiomachi Shopping Street, offering a quiet glimpse into everyday island life through its local post office, cafés, and stores.

Okayama & Kagawa Area

Blending heritage and contemporary expression, the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter preserves canals lined with white-walled storehouses and willow trees once used for transport, now explored by boat or on foot. While the district centers on historic architecture alongside modern galleries and cafés, the wider Okayama region’s cotton-trading legacy later made it the birthplace of Japan-made denim, shaped by European influence and local craft—a creative dialogue that continues at the Ohara Museum of Art within the quarter.

Back in Okayama City, Korakuen Garden—created in 1687 by a local feudal lord as a place of rest—offers one of Japan’s most iconic landscaped gardens, where open lawns, tea houses, and pavilions invite visitors to slow their pace.

Fully rested, travelers can continue on to Uno Port, a gateway to islands in the Seto Inland Sea known for their art scene and a destination in its own right. Here, waterfront sculptures and installations sit alongside local seafood restaurants and cafés, with views rising toward Mount Ojigatake, whose 234-meter (767-ft) summit overlooks the island-speckled sea.

The contemporary art spirit of Setouchi is embodied by Benesse House on Naoshima, where museum spaces, architecture, hospitality, and nature merge into a contemplative island experience. Beyond Naoshima, creativity extends across a constellation of islands, including Teshima and Megijima, as well as Shodoshima, where olive farming and wooden-barrel soy sauce brewing reflect culinary traditions shaped by time, and Ogijima, where ornamental Kagawa lacquer art remains a living practice.

This sensibility comes into focus during the Setouchi Triennale, presented across villages, fields, and repurposed buildings every three years over approximately 100 days, inviting travelers to move slowly by ferry and discover how contemporary expression quietly integrates with local life across the archipelago.

● Why the Setouchi region should be on your next Japan itinerary

● Three-day trip discovering Japan’s Inland Sea

● Private tours and expert-led experiences in Setouchi by Wabunka

Setouchi rewards those who travel slowly, with easy access by rail: Hiroshima and Okayama are 80 minutes and 45 minutes respectively from Osaka via the San-yo Shinkansen, with local trains and ferries connecting onward to the islands. For added convenience, the JR Setouchi Area Pass offers a flexible way to explore the region over seven days, covering the San-yo Shinkansen, limited express trains, and select trams, buses, and ferries.

Scenic sightseeing rail journeys, including the coastline-tracing etSETOra and the art-inspired La Malle de Bois, together with the Sea Spica sightseeing cruise between Hiroshima and Onomichi, further reflect Setouchi’s unhurried lifestyle, one calm journey at a time across the Seto Inland Sea.

Discover more about West Japan Railway Company and the Setouchi region here.