The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
DAZED AND CONFUSED MAGAZINE COVER, DANIEL SANNWALD (2008)When it comes to the vibrant, emerging group of fashion photographers that are being pegged as the future of the industry, the rule is there are no rules. They are irreverent, playful and above all diverse -- and their work could set the visual agenda for decades to come.
The work of 25 of these photographers has been gathered together in a new exhibition, "Don't Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next," at Foam photography museum in Amsterdam. CNN spoke to show curator Magdalene Keaney -- who is also author of an accompanying book, "Fashion Photography Next" -- about new trends in fashion photography and the people creating them.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"CARA CONEY ISLAND WITH GOLDFISH," TUNG WALSH (2012)CNN: Are the photographers in this show the next stars of fashion photography? Could they be the next Mario Testino or Juergen Teller?
MK: These photographers all have incredible vision. In selecting them I'm saying I believe they all have stellar futures. I am identifying them as fashion photographers with creative vision that could make them the next group of establishment fashion photographers, like Mario Testino or Nick Knight.
Even though we are defining them as the next generation of emerging talents ... in fashion photography, and most creative mediums, to get to this level when you can be pegged as an emerging practitioner with something to say takes around five years.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"MARYNA WITH DUMPLINGS CHINATOWN NYC," TUNG WALSH (2012)CNN: You have said that two characteristics of the photographers featured are variety and hybrid. So, these days, anything goes?
MK: Photography has changed immensely in the last 20 years, and even in the last five to 10 years. Technologies that people work with and platforms for dissemination of images have changed so rapidly that ... there are so many more opportunities for ... how and where one might show work.
In that sense, some of the boundaries or limitations (previous generations dealt with) making fashion imagery have broken down. Like in photography more generally, the genre definitions such as still life, portraiture or studio work now don't exist in such a pure form. A photo can now be all of those things.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"MOM KETCHUP AND MUSTARD," FROM THE SERIES "MOM 2012," CHARLIE ENGMAN (2012)MK: How you might go about being a fashion photographer isn't the same now. A few generations ago, the path would have been to study photography and then assist a well-known photographer for a number of years, but now there are so many platforms for showing your work.
Two of the photographer in the exhibition, Charlie Engman and Harley Weir ... were discovered through posting work on Flickr.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"UNTITLED SSD," HANNA PUTZ (2012)MK: If I'd have done this 15 years ago there would have been a whole lot less women. I think it's wonderful that now just as many women are working in photography as men and that women are taking photographs of men, not just of women.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"MEGHAN CRYING (PINK STREAK)," CHAD MOORE (2010)CNN: There are some broad trends -- which do you find the most exciting?
MK: If I think about the way the exhibition is structured, the first room deals with approach to subject and (there are) two still prevalent traditions -- the documentary tradition, which I have called "authenticity," and the second, which contrasts that with a narrative or filmic approach, "artifice." They are two enduring approaches but that are also progressing and are sites for experimentation.
In the documentary tradition are people like Chad Moore, a photographer from New York City and Jamie Hawkesworth from the UK. In the filmic and narrative tradition are people like Robbie Rodriguez a Spanish photographer working in London and Julia Hetta, a Swedish photographer whose narrative works are otherworldly and beautiful still compositions.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"FLAVIANA MATATA" BY AXEL HOEDT (2012)MK: The second theme is an idea of materiality. With the proliferation of digital technology, which has had massive impact on photography, you would expect all photography to be digitally produced and heavily retouched ... (but) quite a few of the documentary (tradition) photographers ... like Jonathan Hallam (and) Axel Hoedt ... also use film and develop their photographs in the darkroom.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"VALERIJA WITH FLOWER OVER WHOLE FACE," MEL BLES COLLABORATION WITH LINDER STERLING FOR POP MAGAZINE (2011)MK: There are some photographers working digitally like Daniel Sannwald and Mel Bles (and they) ... both ... use digital technology and retouching in a sophisticated way where images are juxtaposed ... with hi-and-low-fi put together.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"UNTITLED," BAKER AND EVANS (2013)CNN: Some photographers are also incorporating collage, sculpture, installations and performance -- what examples do you find most exciting?
MK: That element comes into the third room, which is called "Play and Arrangement" ... (some of the work featured is by) Brit duo Brendan Baker and Daniel Evans from London.
They might photograph something as banal as a hair extension and transform it into something sculptural ... it comes out of their experience in the image-saturated post-internet generation. They have picked up on the irony of (the prevalence and saturation of images on our screens) and (their work) is in one sense playful, and in another sense is questioning this almost attention deficit disorder we have now.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion —
"PURPLE DRESS SCULPTURAL," RUVAN WIJESOORIYA (2010)CNN: Are there any global centers for new photography?
MK: I wanted to book to be as global as possible and there are 35 photographers coming from 14 countries, so there is a good global spread. I would also say that it became very apparent that (while there is spread) the centers still hold. New York and London and to a lesser degree Paris ... no matter where (the photographers) came from, it's where they gravitated to. How you become a photographer has loosened up but when you start working at a certain level, working for the international fashion magazines, the centers are New York City and London.
The next generation of photographers —
"IPHEGENIA NOTHING LASTS FOREVER," TYRONE LEBON (2011)CNN: Zines, independent underground publishers and self-publishing is a big influence too -- what magazines or websites should we know about?
MK: At the top level of the industry, international fashion magazines and brands are now not the only way to become well known. You can produce work for a zine or book you might produce and distribute yourself or for an online platform. Many of the photographers featured in this exhibition have produced beautiful self-published photo books. It's widely practiced in contemporary photography. These books can sell out and become collectors' items themselves.
You can be part of a community of people that can help you publicize it -- communities of people who are interested in the same things who support each other's work. Tyrone Lebon's DoBeDo is a good example of a web-based platform where a collective supports each other's work.
