'Naomichi Yasuda was until recently, the chef partner of one of the very best, if not the best sushi restaurant in New York, the eponymous Sushi Yasuda.' says Anthony Bourdain. 'A short while ago, under very mysterious and completely misreported circumstances, he left the Manhattan restaurant which still bears his name, and at age 52, moved to Tokyo to start all over again.' So Bourdain decided to track him down.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
'Naomichi Yasuda was until recently, the chef partner of one of the very best, if not the best sushi restaurant in New York, the eponymous Sushi Yasuda.' says Anthony Bourdain. 'A short while ago, under very mysterious and completely misreported circumstances, he left the Manhattan restaurant which still bears his name, and at age 52, moved to Tokyo to start all over again.' So Bourdain decided to track him down.
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These days, this great man is running a 14 seat sushi bar in the Minato District of Tokyo. His wife, Naomi, is his only helper, Bourdain found.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
These days, this great man is running a 14 seat sushi bar in the Minato District of Tokyo. His wife, Naomi, is his only helper, Bourdain found.
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'So many things separate Yasuda-san from other Japanese sushi masters. The most noticeable is his hands. They're huge. Look at the knuckles, enormous from years of pounding cement walls during repeated daily practice in kyokushin karate,' says Bourdain. 'This style, Yasuda practiced, was about beating your opponent as quickly and as aggressively as possible. Speed. Every second is important.'<br />
The taste delights of Tokyo —
'So many things separate Yasuda-san from other Japanese sushi masters. The most noticeable is his hands. They're huge. Look at the knuckles, enormous from years of pounding cement walls during repeated daily practice in kyokushin karate,' says Bourdain. 'This style, Yasuda practiced, was about beating your opponent as quickly and as aggressively as possible. Speed. Every second is important.'
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In the Taito Ward of Tokyo, excellent izakayas are well represented, places where a hard working salary man can have a beer or some sake or many beers and many sakes, says Bourdain.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
In the Taito Ward of Tokyo, excellent izakayas are well represented, places where a hard working salary man can have a beer or some sake or many beers and many sakes, says Bourdain.
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And, salty, savory, pickly delicious snacks that go brilliantly with alcohol.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
And, salty, savory, pickly delicious snacks that go brilliantly with alcohol.
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Skewers of beef intestine and chicken.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Skewers of beef intestine and chicken.
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At Tsukiji, Tokyo's central fish market, nearly 3,000 tons of the world's best seafood arrives every day.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
At Tsukiji, Tokyo's central fish market, nearly 3,000 tons of the world's best seafood arrives every day.
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Many chefs arrive at four a.m. to nab what they perceive as the best and freshest fish.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Many chefs arrive at four a.m. to nab what they perceive as the best and freshest fish.
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Yasuda goes later and chooses wisely -- not necessarily opting for the most opulent cuts or varieties.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Yasuda goes later and chooses wisely -- not necessarily opting for the most opulent cuts or varieties.
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A fish market vendor takes a smoke break.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
A fish market vendor takes a smoke break.
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Yasuda says that rice is an even more important ingredient in his sushi than the fish is. 'Fish is a second ingredient.'
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Yasuda says that rice is an even more important ingredient in his sushi than the fish is. 'Fish is a second ingredient.'
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Note the clear eyes -- a distinct sign of freshness.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Note the clear eyes -- a distinct sign of freshness.
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Close-up of fish for sale at the market.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Close-up of fish for sale at the market.
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Cleaned, chilled squid for sale.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Cleaned, chilled squid for sale.
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Crabs are often sold live.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Crabs are often sold live.
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Chefs like Yasuda don't opt for the expensive belly. With his impeccable knife skills, he can often get what he needs from the head of the fish.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
Chefs like Yasuda don't opt for the expensive belly. With his impeccable knife skills, he can often get what he needs from the head of the fish.
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'Maybe the most important thing you need to know about Tokyo ... every high end chef, from Spain, France, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles - basically every chef I've ever met. If you asked them -- if you had to spend the rest of your life, in one country, eating one country's food for the rest of your life, where would that be? They're all gonna say the same thing. Japan. Tokyo. Period. For me, that's an argument ender,' says Bourdain.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
'Maybe the most important thing you need to know about Tokyo ... every high end chef, from Spain, France, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles - basically every chef I've ever met. If you asked them -- if you had to spend the rest of your life, in one country, eating one country's food for the rest of your life, where would that be? They're all gonna say the same thing. Japan. Tokyo. Period. For me, that's an argument ender,' says Bourdain.
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'It is a humbling experience. You come here and you see how much precision, you see how much perfection is possible -- with so few components. And you come away from that changed, and a little frightened,' says Bourdain.
The taste delights of Tokyo —
'It is a humbling experience. You come here and you see how much precision, you see how much perfection is possible -- with so few components. And you come away from that changed, and a little frightened,' says Bourdain.
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